Carte Blanche X Denham SS12 MEN: DUTY DGL

“We’re proud of our variation of the M65 jacket, the DUTY. The M65 style has been part of us military livery for over 40 years. Originally introduced in 1965 to replace the M-1951 field jacket, it was used by soldiers during the Vietnam and Korean Wars and is still in official military service today.

The original M65 jacket was made from a water and wind resistant cotton-nylon fabric. It had 4 front pockets, two on the chest and two lower hand-stuffers, all with flaps. There was a hood which zipped into the collar, and a heavy front zipper with snaps. The wrists had Velcro closures and both waist and hem tightened with draw strings. It could also be fitted with a detachable liner.

Our variation represents an aggressive customization of those specs.  Our Piggy-Back Pocket system and the addition of a vertical zipped airline ticket pocket increase the front pocket-count from 4 to 7. The four at the high-chest are all flapped using the overlapping system we stole from an American truck-driver’s wallet (they keep their cash under one flap, and their receipts under the other). Our hood also stows into the collar with a Talon zipper.  We’ve rotated and redrawn the contour on the cuffs to better cover the back of your hands. We’ve added a single-sided removable “Brassard” (a shoulder pocket that attaches via the epaulet) which has two pockets and allows for optional branding.  The epaulets themselves are also removable and we’ve changed the storm-flap closure to our own Cable Connection system,

Finally, even though this is Spring, we’ve included an interior button-set to allow our earlier Liner designs to be integrated if needed.”

This limited edition was made using vintage Dutch Army ponchos.  The Dutch camouflage pattern is very close to the British and we elected to use this reclaimed fabric with its backside forward.  The ponchos had been treated with a water-resistant coating which had started to de-laminate.  We liked the visual character of this de-lamination so much, we flipped the fabric inside-out and built this edition of the Duty backwards.

Besides being a military classic, the M65 is also a cultural icon.  A long parade of legendary musicians, and characters in film have cemented the style’s place in menswear history.  Arguably the most powerful image is De Niro’s Travis Bickle in Taxi Driver.

Film images are one thing, but the real history of the jacket and the evolution it represented when it was introduced is the main inspiration which is why the original will always have a place in our Denham Garment Library.

Source: Denham

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